Pool Maintenance Schedule
Consistent testing and small adjustments are far easier than correcting a neglected pool. Here is a routine that keeps most pools in good shape with minimal effort.
Every week
Test free chlorine and pH
These change fastest and matter most. Chlorine target: 1–3 ppm (see note below if your stabiliser is above 50 ppm). pH target: 7.2–7.6. Adjust if outside range.
Scan your strip →Top up chlorine if needed
In hot, sunny weather chlorine can drop significantly in a few days. A floater with trichlor tablets provides a slow background dose — supplement with liquid chlorine if the level drops. Note: trichlor tablets are acidic (pH ~2.5) and will gradually lower your pool's pH — test pH at least twice a week if using a floater.
Calculate dose →Skim and brush
Remove debris from the surface and brush walls and floor. Organic debris consumes chlorine and encourages algae.
Check the filter
Make sure it is running the recommended hours for your pool size (usually 8–12 hours per day in summer). Backwash a sand or DE filter if the pressure reads 8–10 psi above the clean baseline.
Every month
Test total alkalinity
Target: 80–120 ppm. Low alkalinity causes pH to swing erratically. High alkalinity makes pH hard to move. Alkalinity changes slowly — monthly testing is sufficient.
Test stabiliser (CYA)
Target: 30–50 ppm. Especially important if you use trichlor tablets — stabiliser builds up over time and does not break down. Once above 80 ppm, chlorine loses effectiveness significantly.
About stabiliser levels →Test calcium hardness
Target: 200–400 ppm. Low calcium makes water aggressive and corrosive. High calcium leads to scale and cloudy water. This changes slowly — monthly is enough.
Shock the pool
A monthly shock is a sensible default for regularly used pools — it breaks down chloramines that build up from sweat and organics, and resets your baseline. If your pool gets heavy use or combined chlorine is above 0.5 ppm, shock sooner rather than waiting for the monthly schedule. Apply at dusk.
How to shock a pool →Clean the filter
Sand filters: backwash if needed. DE filters: backwash if needed, then add fresh DE (about 80% of the original charge) — without it the filter passes debris straight through. Cartridge filters: rinse with a gentle hose spray; avoid pressure washers as they damage the pleats.
At pool opening (spring)
- 1Remove and clean the cover. Inspect for tears.
- 2Reconnect pump, filter, and heater. Check for leaks.
- 3Fill the pool to the correct level if needed.
- 4Run the pump for 24 hours to circulate and filter.
- 5Test all five parameters: chlorine, pH, alkalinity, stabiliser, and calcium. Scan your test strip →
- 6Shock the pool to deal with any buildup over winter.
- 7Adjust any parameters that are out of range — alkalinity first, then pH, then chlorine.
At pool closing (autumn)
- 1Test and balance all parameters a week before closing.
- 2Shock the pool and let chlorine return to normal levels.
- 3Clean the pool thoroughly — brush walls, vacuum debris.
- 4Lower the water level if needed for your climate.
- 5Drain and blow out pipes if freezing temperatures are expected.
- 6Add a winter algaecide — useful even with a cover, as some algae can survive in low light under non-opaque covers.
- 7Fit the cover securely.
Quick reference
* Free chlorine target depends on your stabiliser (CYA) level. At CYA 30–50 ppm, 1–3 ppm FC is correct. If CYA rises above 50 ppm, your minimum FC must rise with it — the rule of thumb is FC ≥ 7.5% of CYA (e.g. CYA 60 ppm → FC ≥ 4.5 ppm). At CYA above 80 ppm, normal FC levels may not sanitise the pool at all. Learn more →
Test your water and PoolScan tells you exactly what to add — in the right order, with the right amounts.
Check your pool chemistry →Shop on Amazon
Test Strips
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Digital pH Meter
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CYA Test Kit
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Chemical Floater
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